On being vegetarian in FranceA few months ago, my son Sam declared himself a vegetarian. Now, if we lived in California this might not sound unusual, but this is France, proud land of
steak-frites and
saucisson,
andouillette and
tête de veau.
A new chef at the Louis XVIt was potatoes that first cemented my friendship with Franck Cerutti, chef for ten years at Alain Ducasse's Louis XV restaurant in Monaco.
Paris restaurant: PramilWhen it comes to restaurants, I'm not really that demanding. I want the basic ingredients to be seasonal and good. I want the cooking to show restraint: nothing puts me off more than an overly complicated plate. And I want the chef to have a heart that shines through in the food.
Sunday lunch at Holland ParkTempting as it was to linger on the beach on Sunday morning, I wasn't going to miss the opportunity to visit Holland Park, an intriguing new garden center/restaurant that has been open just a couple of months.
A few days in Montmartre with Haven in ParisI have a vision of my perfect apartment in Paris. It would be high up - stairs don't scare me - with a small balcony and a sweeping view over the zinc rooftops, punctuated here and there with church spires and glimmering domes.
Menu for Hope: Win a Paris food itinerary, bid item EU19Each year, in the midst of the Christmas rush, I like to make a little time for Menu for Hope.
The Paris-Brest at La Pâtisserie des RêvesNever one to miss a new Paris pastry shop, I made a taxi screech to a halt when I spotted
La Pâtisserie des Rêves back in September.
Ready, prêt, go: Eating on the run in LondonFor the school holidays, I took Sam to London to brush up his English. Well, that was the official excuse.
L'Ecole des FillesThe surreal extravagance of our last meal in Liguria left us with a quandary: how could any restaurant live up to that experience, which was all the more incredible for having caught us off guard?
Sunday in LiguriaWhen I want a complete change of scenery, I get in the car and drive for 40 minutes. As soon as we cross the border into Italy, everything is suddenly different: the people, the language, the music, the clothes, the coffee (
especially the coffee).
Time for mirabellesWhen summer decides that it's over in the south of France, it doesn't fool around.
Les Cévennes, donkey and allLes Cévennes is a region barely known to tourists and even less so to foreigners, and that's the way I like it. Even so, it would seem a tiny bit selfish to keep quiet about my latest holiday in those wild mountains between Nîmes and Montpellier, which was different but every bit as extraordinary as
last year's.
At home with Art HomeEveryone has been talking about
Nomiya lately, and I was starting to feel like the only person who can't boast about having eaten at the ultra-cool temporary restaurant on the top floor of the Palais de Tokyo.
Au Petit Gari: a lesson in where not to eatIf my brief career as a Paris bistro chef has given me fresh admiration and respect for restaurant owners who care, it has also made me less forgiving of those who take the customer for an uncomfortable ride.
La Table de Claire: the aftermathBecoming a bistro chef for a weekend at La Table de Claire seemed like a brilliant idea until I found myself facing a mountain of vegetables with my back to five flaming burners on one of the most stifling days of the year in Paris.